Friday, March 1, 2013

Train at Altitude: Running Tours of Oaxaca, Mexico

Oaxaca, Mexico is a southern Mexico city that is the seat of an intact indigenous culture. Renowned for it's cuisine, arts, ruins, markets and natural beauty, it's also the home of Mezcal, the mysterious smokey/smooth distilled agave beverage that is the soul of Oaxaca. At just over 5000 feet in altitude, it's the perfect place for the serious runner, offering ample opportunities to run, train and race in a cultural mecca. As a Oaxaca resident since 2007, I'm your insider guide to running adventure here.

Oaxaca is noted for it's Day of the Dead celebrations in early November

Easily reached via a direct flight on United from Houston, Oaxaca offers a wide range of elegant, reasonably priced hotels. Aero Mexico also flies to Oaxaca via Mexico City.

The city of Oaxaca sits at the confluence of three mountain valleys and boasts a near ideal climate. The city center features a charming array of sixteenth century baroque architecture, dotted with convivial cafes and restaurants featuring the world renowned Oaxacan cuisine.

Oaxaca sports an active running community, the locals logging their training miles on pavement, in parks and in the campo (countryside). The frequent road races are well attended, convivial events. Be warned, there is fierce competition--perhaps because most races offer prize money in all age categories, in cash! I will admit to some skepticism about age claims amongst some of the masters runners around here, given the performances they log.

There is even a contingent of local Kenyan athletes, perhaps a dozen men and women, who use Oaxaca as a training base, occasionally testing their fitness in local runs.

 Libramiento Road, North of Oaxaca City

You are invited to join me as your host for running in Oaxaca. We will run the Libramiento, the pedestrian road that skirts the mountain range north of Oaxaca. It's a perfect locale for a challenging long run at 5,600 feet that includes a spectacular view of the city. 

 Llano Grande, Oaxaca

Truly hardy souls can opt for a visit to the nearby mountain village of Llano Grande for a run at over 6,000 feet in a pristine setting, with the promise of a fresh trout meal on the way back to town.

Subject to availability, there is always the possibility of catching a road race while visiting. Failing that, you can test your fitness on the on the flat 5 kilometer course in Techio park south of town. All in all, Oaxaca offers a superb opportunity for runners to get a leg up on the competition with some altitude training, and to enjoy life!

Can you pick Steve out from the locals on the starting line? Photo by Jeff Charles.

Running in Oaxaca is a far cry from the rugged ultra-runner experience among Mexico's Tarahumara tribe described by writer Christopher McDougal in his seminal book Born to Run. While there is plenty of hilly, challenging countryside to run, there is a surfeit of urban amenities waiting for you at the end of the trail.

In addition to these running tours, I host visits to ruins, arts and craft villages, museums, mezcal stills, markets and other Oaxaca attractions. I also recommend local guides and tours in addition to leading them myself.

My fee for running/tour services is 250 pesos/20 dollars per hour plus gas. The day rate is 1200 pesos/100 dollars.

I'm a lifelong runner myself, starting in 1972 at age 15. I raced my way through high school and college, running both 1:57 for 800 meters and 4:01 over 1500 meters at UMass Amherst. Today, as age 56, I keep fit running the Oaxacan hills and enjoying the local cuisine.

Steve Lafler racing over 5K in 2007 in Portland, Oregon.

Steve Lafler, Oaxaca, Mexico

503-213-3671 (US based Skype number)