Oaxaca Running Tips

Here's a few tips for runners visiting the city of Oaxaca. I was leading running tours in the hills around the city of Oaxaca for a few years, but for family reasons had to head back to the states (at least for now), so I want to leave a few pointers here.

We'll look at choices for running in the center of town, at a park near the airport, and best of all, above the city on the Libramiento road just north of Colonia San Felipe del Agua. Finally, we'll open the door to the Pueblos Mancomundados, mountain villages where you can indulge in endless trail running.

Parque Llano

The easiest run in the Oaxaca City Centro is to do laps around the lovely urban Parque Llano, between Calle Benito Juarez and Piño Suarez. It's about 650 meters per lap. Just don't go on Friday, market day. Keep an eye out for kids, dogs, bikes and vendors, but in truth it's a well-used, much loved locale for local runners. Sometimes Parque Llano is called El Llano, or Parque Juarez.

Click on map to see it larger

There are often races starting in Parque Llano on Sunday mornings, typically at 8:00 a.m. The starting line in usually on the Calle Benito Juarez side of the park.

No one will bother you if you run bandit. You always have to sign up in advance, so many people simply show up and run without a number. Lots of families are in the park on Sunday, so it's maybe not the best time to run laps in the actual park, but if there's a race, get there early and join the Oaxacan running community for a jaunt around town.

Expect a chaotic scene at the start. You'll find chubby abuelas smiling on the front line, standing in front of the local Kenyan contingent (who will run 10k under 30:00 even at mile high altitude) . Just be patient, as the Kenyans are, and take your time with the start.

 The starting line of a local 5K race on Calle Garcia Vigil in Oaxaca. I bet you can pick me out in the lineup pretty easily! Photo by Jeff Charles.

A few blocks east of Parque Llano there is a new track/sports complex that is open to the public. There is a running path there as well as the track. It's on the other side of the Periferico from Llano. It's a few blocks south of Calle Niños Heroes de Chapultepec.

Parque Tequio

Near the airport is Parque Tequio, with a 5k-ish flat trail. You can take a cab out there for about 120 pesos. Tell the cabbie your destination and ask for a price before entering the cab. It's good for women runners to have a companion, of course, but many local runners are there mornings. Sometimes there are races there too.

The Libramiento Road, Closed to Cars

You can also grab a cab to the Colonia San Felipe Del Agua, 3 miles north of the Centro, or take the San Felipe/Hospital bus from Parque Llano. Ask to go to the bus turnaround square (end of the bus line). It's about a kilometer past the Iglesia San Felipe. From there, the Libramiento road starts. Ask the driver to show you the start of the Libramiento road from the bus turnaround square. It's on the west side of the square.

The Libramiento is 99% traffic free, running on the hillside above the city.  The local running and biking community is up there mornings getting in a workout. If you do an out-and-back run from the bus turnaround, go out about 3.5 miles and you can get to the ridge between the Oaxaca and Etla valleys and see both sides. Beautiful!

One note, some of the buses will not stop at the bus turnaround area north of San Felipe del Agua, they will proceed to drive the Libramiento for about a half mile then take a left down a steep road. You will know they are on the Libramiento as things get rural in a hurry.

You can also run to the Libramiento from Parque Colosio in San Felipe del Agua, here's my cheesy video about it. There is no bus to Parque Colosio, but you can take a cab there. Ask the cabbie if he knows where Parque Colosio is. They don't all know. Or course, they'll never admit it!

Parque Colosio a great place to start a run from. Standing at the park entrance, head left our of the park on the road for about 100 meters, then take the dirt road to the left. It will take you about 3/4 of a mile up to the Libramiento road. You can go left to run up to the ridge between the valleys. Or go right, and in about a mile you'll connect with the bus turnaround at the top of San Felipe del Agua.

It took me years to discover and explore the trails on the wooded hills/mountains above the Libramiento. I was in heaven running up there. If you can get used to hills, it's a runners paradise. I also got really fit running up there! In truth, it's best to have a local guide to show you the trails. Once I befriended some local runners, they showed me the ropes.

My favorite trail route is called the Carniveros by locals, while other gringos called it the Meatgrinder. Basically, you run from just about 5000 feet up to about 6000 on the gorgeous wooded mountainside, and the come back. It's a wooded trail above the Libramiento road.

I designed routes for myself combining the Libramiento road and Carniveros trail running from 6 to 12 miles. If I ran with my friend Richard Stoutner, ultra-runner and coach, we might go as far as 15. Transcendental fun, in my book!

Here's my post on running the Carniveros.

When I led running tours in Oaxaca, I had a few hard core clients who were tough and strong enough to run up the mountains with me, lots of fun! Some of them really raked me over the coals!

A word of caution, don't try to take the wooded trail from the Libramiento that is close to the bus turnaround, as it's closed. There are guards there anyway, so you get the picture.

Pueblos Mancomundados

There are a series of high altitude villages and wilderness areas within an hour or two of Oaxaca, at altitude of 7 - 8000 feet and up. You can book hiking tours at these Pueblos Mancomundados, and chances are you could find a sporting tour guide who would be willing to take you running up there. I have hiked up there, but not run. But I recommend it for the hard core ultra or trail runners out there!

Reserve a cabaña and stay for a night or three, it's inexpensive. For a day hike, you can hire a guide. If you stay overnight, you'd have the opportunity to explore more than one trail, and run to the next village even! Adventure beckons. You can eat hearty, fresh delicious local foods it a local comedor (dining room) for crazy low prices.

Here's a photo link from Lonely Planet on the Pueblos Mancomundados.

Getting High in Oaxaca

As you may know, Oaxaca is a mile high city, just enough altitude to feel it when you run. Stay hydrated and take it easy for the first couple days. Check out these altitude running tips from Runner's World, and don't be afraid to slow to a walk if you feel winded.

And final note on running in Oaxaca. Don't run in front of cars, if you value your legs (and your life).

I lived in Oakland, CA prior to Oaxaca, where pedestrians aggressively assert their legal right of way. By walking in front of cars at crosswalks. Smart, eh? The law is officially on the side of pedestrians in Oaxaca, but exercising your rights could lead to getting run over.

Didn't mean to scare you! Have fun. And if you are not used to mile high altitude, take it easy at first.

Feel free to email me with Q's on Oaxaca running! Happy trails.

Steve Lafler

Oaxaca Running Tours is on Hiatus

Hey fellow runners, it's been a ton of fun leading running tours in Oaxaca, Mexico. As of November 2016, the service is on hiatus. I'll be spending most of my time in the states for awhile. I'm still happy to dispense advice on running in Oaxaca.

Cheers,
STEVE

La Navidad in Oaxaca - Let's Run

You're going to Oaxaca this Christmas! Or you are already here. Welcome to this highland jewel, this cultural mecca in southern Mexico.

Now get your running shoes on and let's go. I provide guided running tours of the best running routes in Oaxaca for a very reasonable fee. Dates are open up to Dec. 20.

Zip me an email to book a tour.

Steve Lafler
a.k.a. The Grumpy Runner

Boston Running Mecca Redux

I came of age as a runner in the mid 70s in the greater Boston area, the heyday of Bill Rodgers.

Running for Lincoln Sudbury High School, some 19 miles west of Boston, I regularly lined up against a super skinny pit-bull runner from the next town over (Wayland), a kid a year younger than I (but I could never beat him,) Alberto Salazar.

I topped out at 5th in the state in the indoor 1000 yards, an event consigned to the dustbin of obscure running history.

Today I'm visiting the old country (a.k.a. Massachusetts), and I see that the the Boston Globe has an article about Boston once again emerging as a mecca for elite runners. The article sites the BAA (Boston Athletic Association, who run the Boston Marathon) and New Balance as spearheading Boston's running renaissance.

As an old Massachusetts running hand, I applaud this, but as a modern devotee of distance running, I say Show me the altitude! I mean, c'mon, Boston is a sea-level city!

Wait! I have a solution. All you elite Boston runners are hereby invited to the splendor of Oaxaca to train at terrain ranging from 5-7000 feet. C'mon down to my beautiful adopted city and feel the pain! Perfect weather from September to February beckons. You can enjoy the world renowned cuisine of Oaxaca while you run your guts out in the rugged hills. There's still plenty of time to put in significant altitude training blocks in preparation for the challenges of 2015!

Just a thought.

Steve Lafler
Book a Oaxaca Running Tour

A Super Fun Trail Race

Had a fantastic experience today at a trail race in Oaxaca. It was called the Sanfe trail run (Sanfe, as in Colonia San Felipe.)

Near the La Salle school in the San Felipe Del Agua neighborhood of Oaxaca, the race started where the paved road gave way to dirt, and headed straight up the mountains to the north of Oaxaca.

Perhaps a bit over 200 runners lined up for their choice of an out-and-back course over 8K, 12K or 18K, all run simultaneously. I chose 8K, and started near the back of the pack.

The mob of runners bumped over rolling terrain for the first kilometer or so, then the serious climb from about 5300 feet to 6000 feet began in earnest. I focused on keeping a relaxed rhythm, and was amused to note that many runners were already "racing" on the way up the hill. Why waste the energy, thought I?

As the one of the very few non-Mexicans in the race, I may have provoked some local pride, such as, "here's how you run our hills, guero!". Indeed, the overall level of distance running and racing in Oaxaca is impressive, stacking up well against the fields in Portland, Oregon where I lived prior to Oaxaca.

I took roughly 30 minutes to hit the turnaround point, give or take, quite a slog. As I turned around, I found myself at the back of a pack of 5 runners, young guys gunning the downhill, full of race.

Normally I'd keep my own council, maintain rhythm, run my own race. Today, I got caught up in the fun of competing and went with the pack. We barreled down that hill like no one's business, passing and re-passing each other. I felt full of run, totally into the chase. it was exhilarating! The view of the city of Oaxaca was spectacular from our vantage point, but we kept our eyes on the trail as a spill would mean serious bruising.

I'd moved from 10th up to 7th place before faltering on some minor hills close to the finish. With a couple hundred meters to go, a guy came up on me to battle for 9th place. I could not sprint, but managed to out kick the dude.

I finished in 49 minutes and change. Right around ten minutes per mile. Quite a varied pace in truth, with some uphill portions passing in more like 15 minutes per mile, and no doubt some of the down hill bits in well under 5 minutes per mile.

The day's experience was running and racing at it's best, underlining the thrill of participation for it's own sake.

Steve Lafler
Email me if you'd like to book a running tour in Oaxaca.

Oaxaca Running Tours

For those lucky runners who visit the splendid highland city of Oaxaca in southern Mexico, the array of running and training experiences await you.

First (and perhaps foremost), you can enjoy long runs on the roads and trails on the mountainside  north of the city proper, enjoying spectacular vistas while running between 5-6000 feet in altitude. Truly hearty souls can opt for longer runs, steeper hills and higher altitudes by simply running further up the mountainside.

For the 5K/10K racer, the Parque El Tequio offers a flat 5K loop with distance markers every 500 meters, ideal for time trials and interval training.

 

The author tries his luck at a Oaxaca 5K trail race--6000 feet, here we come!

Oaxaca also boasts a lively racing scene, with races from 5K to the half marathon available most weekends. Prize money is often awarded in all age categories, but a word of warning--some darn good runners show up and it's not easy to get on the podium for a payday! The races with the best prize money attract the local contingent of Kenyans who train and race in Oaxaca and other parts of Mexico.

I offer my services as a running guide in Oaxaca at a fee of $300 pesos per hour, plus gas. Drop me an email or call me via my Skype number at 503-213-3671.

Best Regards,
Steve Lafler

Oaxaca Bound!

Time for a Grumpy Runner heads up!

I'm on the road, heading back to Oaxaca. We have a few stops and adventures planned on the way, but I'll be back in town ready to run on August 9th.

I'm looking forward to leading more running tours above and around my fantastic adopted city.
If you'd like to book a running tour, email me here or call 503-213-3671 (my US based Skype phone number.)

Happy Trails,
Steve Lafler

Does Mezcal Mix with Running?

I guess it depends on how much you drink!

But there is no doubt, moderate consumption of craft mezcal, the local distilled agave drink, is one of the prime reasons to visit Oaxaca.

I just posted a review of my recent visit to Mezcaleria El Conjuro here. Check it out!

The Grumpy Runner samples a craft mezcal on the El Conjuro mezcaleria terrace. Photo by Carrie McNinch

Book a Oaxaca running tour.

The Huatulco Marathon: Better Luck Next Time

Grumpy Runner Complains and Whines

I traveled to the coast of Oaxaca last weekend to the glitzy resort town of Huatulco to run in the first Huatulco Marathon. Actually, I wasn't running the full 26.2 mile race, but the simultaneous 10K that happened that same morning.

I was really pumped for this event. First of all, I'd never been to Huatulco; my visits to the coast of Oaxaca usually take me to the kicked back beach town of San Agustinillo, but forget I mentioned it--I want to keep it's off-the-beaten-track pleasures all to my greedy self! Secondly, I had high hopes, as I'd trained well. I was ready for a good race!

Huatulco is a trip, a strip of high-end resorts along a gorgeous Pacific bay. We stayed at the Barcelo all inclusive resort, a high-rise hotel on the beach with a spectacular pool, several restaurants and of course a swim up bar. My wife managed to score a real deal for us online, maybe 1/3 the posted rate.

The room was posh, the view was great, and the food fresh, well prepared and plentiful. We enjoyed the on-site Sushi restaurant quite a bit. We knocked down our share of watered-down drinks, but not too many as I was there to race!

The race itself started out well enough. While the marathon had several hundred runners, only a bit over a hundred lined up for the simultaneous 5K/10K run. It was a hot morning, but thankfully overcast. My plan was to start slow, build into a good rhythm, and go for broke over the second half of the race.

All went well through the first three kilometers, I felt good and settled into a strong rhythm. I started picking off runners, moved into the top ten and I'm pretty sure I was in first position for my age group (55-59.)

Picking up the pace a bit, I moved through halfway just beginning to feel the stress of the race--but I was ready to dig in and give it what I could. Sadly, it was not to be.

I realized that I was buzzing past really slow runners, like they were barely moving. I wondered if I was off course. I was. Back at the point where the 5K and 10K courses briefly intersected, a poorly trained volunteer had waved me onto the 5K course.

I arrived at the finish after running about 6.5 kilometers, and frankly I was mad as hell. I had a great race going, and a basic incompetence had robbed me of the chance to see it through.

Yes, if you are running for enough years, it's probably happened to you too. You take it in stride, but it still stings pretty good at the moment. To add insult to injury, these knuckleheads listed me in the 5K results. Thanks guys. The way I see it, I won a special event, the 6.5K.

I did literally take one good thing away from the race, and that was the cool T-Shirt they made for it. But they almost messed that up too, as the first one they gave me was a child size. T-Shirt lady ran after me and changed the shirt, so they got something right. Here I am in the cool T, with my best Grumpy Runner face.

I guess I am grumpy 'cause I zipped an email off to the race organizer suggesting they refund my entry fee--after all it was a stiff 350 pesos ($30 US), at least twice the going rate in Oaxaca. Haven't heard back.

A Well-Hydrated Marathon

The marathon itself went off well. A runner friend who finished told me he was pleased that there were aid stations with water throughout, well done! The race was won by Mark Kipkosgei Chepses in 2:38:50. He won by over 5 minutes on a hot day over a hilly course, well done indeed.

Finally, I note that the Huatulco Marathon posted on it's Facebook page on the subject of non-payment of prize money for the race. The language was in a very formal Spanish that I found hard to understand, but it sounds like the organizers were complaining about a lack of assistance from the local authorities in running the race. If I hear more about what happened, I will update this post.
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The Grumpy Runner is a member of Go! Running Tours

Book a running tour in Oaxaca, Mexico
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Run in Oaxaca over Dia De Muertos

The Grumpy Runner recommends a visit to Oaxaca during Dia De Muertos, when the city of Oaxaca shines during the ancient festival honoring departed family members and friends. This is the yearly celebration dating back to Pre-Columbian times when the spirits of the dead return to visit their loved ones.

Of course, it's a great time to come and book a running tour too, with comfortable temperatures in the 60 - 70 degree Fahrenheit range. The rainy season is mostly over with fair skies the norm. Between evenings filled with the sublime celebrations of the Muertos holiday, you can take a run on the ridges above Oaxaca for a spectacular view of the city and surrounding valleys.

While Dia De Muertos is officially November 2, there are multiple fiestas and celebrations all week leading up to the actual holiday. Many visitors kick off their holiday with a visit to the cemetery in the nearby town of Xoxocotlan on the night of October 31st. The locals decorate their family plots with candles, flowers and elaborate altars featuring the favorite items of their departed family members. The idea is to lure them back with their favorite breads, foods, mezcals or cigars.

Outside the cemetery walls, there is a festive atmosphere with local artisans selling their wares, such as the wooden animal carvers from the nearby village of Arrazola. Numerous puestos (food booths) sell delicious fresh local cuisine served on hot tortillas made from fresh masa on the spot.

Costumes from the Comparsa in Nazareno

November 1st brings ample opportunity to take in the local color. The Panteon Municipal of the city of Oaxaca offers an array of spectacular altars in it's mausoleum building, while outside a carnival rages with rides and games, a very child friendly choice.

The real treat on the night of November 1 is the Comparsas -- neighborhood parades commemorating the Muertos festival. There are often dramatic presentations, as in Colonia Jalatlaco adjacent to the Centro (Oaxaca city center), and amazing displays of singular costumes such as in the village of Nazareno (sort of a well kept secret -- it's spectacular!) There is also a gay friendly comparsa in the Cinco Señores neighborhood that reportedly goes until dawn.

The celebrations mellow a bit on the night of the actual holiday. November 2nd finds families settling in for an all-night, or at least a very late-night vigil at the cemetery where their relatives are. Children scramble around and play games, musicians work their magic, mezcal is enjoyed and warm conversation and remembrances frame the evening. 

Dia De Muertos underscores the Mexican acceptance of mortality with humor and grace, and a profound love of ancestors and understanding of the human experience. It's celebration in Oaxaca is one of the most colorful in all Mexico, and a real eye-opener to visitors from other cultures fortunate enough to experience it.

Steve Lafler
Email me to book a running tour.
Skype 503-213-3671

Order a Oaxaca Running Tours Shirt via Redbubble

The best way to get your Oaxaca Running Tours T-Shirt is, of course, to come to Oaxaca, sign up for a tour and purchase a shirt after the run. Here is the design, my cartoon of a calavera runner in Oaxaca.

For those of you who aren't headed to Oaxaca, you are in luck! You can click through to my shirt site at redbubble and buy your Oaxaca Running Tours shirt here.

Oaxaca Running Tours T-Shirt

This afternoon I just pulled some prints in the garage and produced the first batch of Oaxaca Running Tours T-Shirts! One of the first questions I got from my clients on the running tour was, "Do you have T-Shirts? We want them!" So, here we are, and they are a relative steal at 150 pesos. This is a rough screen shot photo, but you get the idea. I'll put up a pretty one soon. Steve Lafler Email me 503-213-3671