We'll look at choices for running in the center of town, at a park near the airport, and best of all, above the city on the Libramiento road just north of Colonia San Felipe del Agua. Finally, we'll open the door to the Pueblos Mancomundados, mountain villages where you can indulge in endless trail running.
Parque Llano
The easiest run in the Oaxaca City Centro is to do laps around the lovely urban Parque Llano, between Calle Benito Juarez and Piño Suarez. It's about 650 meters per lap. Just don't go on Friday, market day. Keep an eye out for kids, dogs, bikes and vendors, but in truth it's a well-used, much loved locale for local runners. Sometimes Parque Llano is called El Llano, or Parque Juarez.
Click on map to see it larger
There are often races starting in Parque Llano on Sunday mornings, typically at 8:00 a.m. The starting line in usually on the Calle Benito Juarez side of the park.
No one will bother you if you run bandit. You always have to sign up in advance, so many people simply show up and run without a number. Lots of families are in the park on Sunday, so it's maybe not the best time to run laps in the actual park, but if there's a race, get there early and join the Oaxacan running community for a jaunt around town.
Expect a chaotic scene at the start. You'll find chubby abuelas smiling on the front line, standing in front of the local Kenyan contingent (who will run 10k under 30:00 even at mile high altitude) . Just be patient, as the Kenyans are, and take your time with the start.
The starting line of a local 5K race on Calle Garcia Vigil in Oaxaca. I bet you can pick me out in the lineup pretty easily! Photo by Jeff Charles.
A few blocks east of Parque Llano there is a new track/sports complex that is open to the public. There is a running path there as well as the track. It's on the other side of the Periferico from Llano. It's a few blocks south of Calle Niños Heroes de Chapultepec.
Parque Tequio
Near the airport is Parque Tequio, with a 5k-ish flat trail. You can take a cab out there for about 120 pesos. Tell the cabbie your destination and ask for a price before entering the cab. It's good for women runners to have a companion, of course, but many local runners are there mornings. Sometimes there are races there too.
The Libramiento Road, Closed to Cars
You can also grab a cab to the Colonia San Felipe Del Agua, 3 miles north of the Centro, or take the San Felipe/Hospital bus from Parque Llano. Ask to go to the bus turnaround square (end of the bus line). It's about a kilometer past the Iglesia San Felipe. From there, the Libramiento road starts. Ask the driver to show you the start of the Libramiento road from the bus turnaround square. It's on the west side of the square.
The Libramiento is 99% traffic free, running on the hillside above the city. The local running and biking community is up there mornings getting in a workout. If you do an out-and-back run from the bus turnaround, go out about 3.5 miles and you can get to the ridge between the Oaxaca and Etla valleys and see both sides. Beautiful!
One note, some of the buses will not stop at the bus turnaround area north of San Felipe del Agua, they will proceed to drive the Libramiento for about a half mile then take a left down a steep road. You will know they are on the Libramiento as things get rural in a hurry.
You can also run to the Libramiento from Parque Colosio in San Felipe del Agua, here's my cheesy video about it. There is no bus to Parque Colosio, but you can take a cab there. Ask the cabbie if he knows where Parque Colosio is. They don't all know. Or course, they'll never admit it!
Parque Colosio a great place to start a run from. Standing at the park entrance, head left our of the park on the road for about 100 meters, then take the dirt road to the left. It will take you about 3/4 of a mile up to the Libramiento road. You can go left to run up to the ridge between the valleys. Or go right, and in about a mile you'll connect with the bus turnaround at the top of San Felipe del Agua.
It took me years to discover and explore the trails on the wooded hills/mountains above the Libramiento. I was in heaven running up there. If you can get used to hills, it's a runners paradise. I also got really fit running up there! In truth, it's best to have a local guide to show you the trails. Once I befriended some local runners, they showed me the ropes.
My favorite trail route is called the Carniveros by locals, while other gringos called it the Meatgrinder. Basically, you run from just about 5000 feet up to about 6000 on the gorgeous wooded mountainside, and the come back. It's a wooded trail above the Libramiento road.
I designed routes for myself combining the Libramiento road and Carniveros trail running from 6 to 12 miles. If I ran with my friend Richard Stoutner, ultra-runner and coach, we might go as far as 15. Transcendental fun, in my book!
Here's my post on running the Carniveros.
When I led running tours in Oaxaca, I had a few hard core clients who were tough and strong enough to run up the mountains with me, lots of fun! Some of them really raked me over the coals!
A word of caution, don't try to take the wooded trail from the Libramiento that is close to the bus turnaround, as it's closed. There are guards there anyway, so you get the picture.
Pueblos Mancomundados
There are a series of high altitude villages and wilderness areas within an hour or two of Oaxaca, at altitude of 7 - 8000 feet and up. You can book hiking tours at these Pueblos Mancomundados, and chances are you could find a sporting tour guide who would be willing to take you running up there. I have hiked up there, but not run. But I recommend it for the hard core ultra or trail runners out there!
Reserve a cabaña and stay for a night or three, it's inexpensive. For a day hike, you can hire a guide. If you stay overnight, you'd have the opportunity to explore more than one trail, and run to the next village even! Adventure beckons. You can eat hearty, fresh delicious local foods it a local comedor (dining room) for crazy low prices.
Here's a photo link from Lonely Planet on the Pueblos Mancomundados.
Getting High in Oaxaca
As you may know, Oaxaca is a mile high city, just enough altitude to feel it when you run. Stay hydrated and take it easy for the first couple days. Check out these altitude running tips from Runner's World, and don't be afraid to slow to a walk if you feel winded.
And final note on running in Oaxaca. Don't run in front of cars, if you value your legs (and your life).
I lived in Oakland, CA prior to Oaxaca, where pedestrians aggressively assert their legal right of way. By walking in front of cars at crosswalks. Smart, eh? The law is officially on the side of pedestrians in Oaxaca, but exercising your rights could lead to getting run over.
Didn't mean to scare you! Have fun. And if you are not used to mile high altitude, take it easy at first.
Feel free to email me with Q's on Oaxaca running! Happy trails.
Steve Lafler
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