The Huatulco Marathon: Better Luck Next Time

Grumpy Runner Complains and Whines

I traveled to the coast of Oaxaca last weekend to the glitzy resort town of Huatulco to run in the first Huatulco Marathon. Actually, I wasn't running the full 26.2 mile race, but the simultaneous 10K that happened that same morning.

I was really pumped for this event. First of all, I'd never been to Huatulco; my visits to the coast of Oaxaca usually take me to the kicked back beach town of San Agustinillo, but forget I mentioned it--I want to keep it's off-the-beaten-track pleasures all to my greedy self! Secondly, I had high hopes, as I'd trained well. I was ready for a good race!

Huatulco is a trip, a strip of high-end resorts along a gorgeous Pacific bay. We stayed at the Barcelo all inclusive resort, a high-rise hotel on the beach with a spectacular pool, several restaurants and of course a swim up bar. My wife managed to score a real deal for us online, maybe 1/3 the posted rate.

The room was posh, the view was great, and the food fresh, well prepared and plentiful. We enjoyed the on-site Sushi restaurant quite a bit. We knocked down our share of watered-down drinks, but not too many as I was there to race!

The race itself started out well enough. While the marathon had several hundred runners, only a bit over a hundred lined up for the simultaneous 5K/10K run. It was a hot morning, but thankfully overcast. My plan was to start slow, build into a good rhythm, and go for broke over the second half of the race.

All went well through the first three kilometers, I felt good and settled into a strong rhythm. I started picking off runners, moved into the top ten and I'm pretty sure I was in first position for my age group (55-59.)

Picking up the pace a bit, I moved through halfway just beginning to feel the stress of the race--but I was ready to dig in and give it what I could. Sadly, it was not to be.

I realized that I was buzzing past really slow runners, like they were barely moving. I wondered if I was off course. I was. Back at the point where the 5K and 10K courses briefly intersected, a poorly trained volunteer had waved me onto the 5K course.

I arrived at the finish after running about 6.5 kilometers, and frankly I was mad as hell. I had a great race going, and a basic incompetence had robbed me of the chance to see it through.

Yes, if you are running for enough years, it's probably happened to you too. You take it in stride, but it still stings pretty good at the moment. To add insult to injury, these knuckleheads listed me in the 5K results. Thanks guys. The way I see it, I won a special event, the 6.5K.

I did literally take one good thing away from the race, and that was the cool T-Shirt they made for it. But they almost messed that up too, as the first one they gave me was a child size. T-Shirt lady ran after me and changed the shirt, so they got something right. Here I am in the cool T, with my best Grumpy Runner face.

I guess I am grumpy 'cause I zipped an email off to the race organizer suggesting they refund my entry fee--after all it was a stiff 350 pesos ($30 US), at least twice the going rate in Oaxaca. Haven't heard back.

A Well-Hydrated Marathon

The marathon itself went off well. A runner friend who finished told me he was pleased that there were aid stations with water throughout, well done! The race was won by Mark Kipkosgei Chepses in 2:38:50. He won by over 5 minutes on a hot day over a hilly course, well done indeed.

Finally, I note that the Huatulco Marathon posted on it's Facebook page on the subject of non-payment of prize money for the race. The language was in a very formal Spanish that I found hard to understand, but it sounds like the organizers were complaining about a lack of assistance from the local authorities in running the race. If I hear more about what happened, I will update this post.
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The Grumpy Runner is a member of Go! Running Tours

Book a running tour in Oaxaca, Mexico
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Go Run in Barcelona

I live in Oaxaca, Mexico. It's a singular place, a remote mile-high city, a Mexican Baroque jewel set in it's own remote locale, over rugged mountain ranges from the rest of the country. The culture, cuisine and people are as varied and interesting as the flora and fauna.

I do think, of course, where else would I like to visit? The answer is simple: Barcelona. I've never been there yet I'm drawn to it, not the least because of the wonderful, seemingly alive buildings of Gaudi.

For the runner who visits Barcelona, there is an amazing resource to tap into: Go! Running Tours Barcelona. You can see this wonderful Mediteranean town on the run and choose from an incredible range of tours that run from 6km on up to 25km. Each tour has a different theme, such as the Old Town tour or the Modernism tour.

The Grumpy Runner highly recommends Go! Running Barcelona and indeed I hope to take one of their tours someday (I'll be saving up!)

Steve Lafler
"The Grumpy Runner"
Book a Running Tour of Oaxaca

When Inspiration Knocks, Jump On It

I was out the door this morning for a 7 mile plus (12 K) run on the Libramiento road on the mountainside north of the city of Oaxaca. I'm 11 days away from competing in a 10 kilometer race in Huatulco on the Oaxaca coast, which is being run the same day as the Huatulco Marathon.

Today's plan: Warm up for a couple miles, then run at race tempo as long as I could stand it. Yes, this workout is meant as a dress rehearsal for the race, a real test of fitness. Let's see if I am race ready.

Problem is, I'm flat as a pancake out the door. So I start slow, figuring that after 5 or ten minutes I'll hit my stride and hit the gas. Sorry! Two miles in and I'm still crawling. I settle into a slow pace, accept that this is not the day. Maybe I can do the monster workout later in the week.

Actually, I'm loose by the halfway point, but thoughts of a hard run are gone. I take the turn on the out-and-back course when something funny happens. Out of the corner of my eye, I see a tall slender man sprint up to the ridge road I'm on from a side trail. I recognize him as one of the local contingent of Kenyan runners who live and train in Oaxaca.

I've seen this guy race. He is graceful, the type of runner who makes a fast pace look effortless. He won a local 10K race I ran about a year ago. I'm not sure of his name, indeed I wonder if some of the Kenyans in Oaxaca race under assumed names to avoid paying the notorious double taxes back home, as the winner of the race in question had a Mexican name!

As I run by, I say, "Mucho trabajo!" to him, he replies in English with a smile, "Yes, hard work!" A contingent of Mexican runners are hard on his heels, sharing the workout with him, if not his fluid stride.

Of a moment, I find myself clicking into a strong rhythm as I head back towards town. I wind up and down the hairpin turns of the Libramiento road and enjoy spectacular views of Oaxaca city and the three valleys that converge there, gradually increasing my pace. The final 3 miles of my run give me exactly what I'm looking for, a simulated race level effort, a confirmation of fitness.

Today I seized the moment of inspiration as I saw this talented runner float like a butterfly up a steep hill. I want to offer another bit of inspiration to readers who enjoy international travel, as follows:

I've become a member of Go! Running Tours, the international group of Running Tour providers. Over the next month, I'm going to put links to different members of the group here in my blog. Today I am linking to Go! Running Tours Budapest. Take a look at their site and consider taking a run with them if you're in their neck of the woods! Quite a deal at 25 Euros. As the whole running tour thing takes off, more and more cities are host to Go! Running Tour members.

Steve Lafler
"The Grumpy Runner"
Book a Running Tour in Oaxaca
Skype 503-213-3671 (US based Skype number)

Run in Oaxaca over Dia De Muertos

The Grumpy Runner recommends a visit to Oaxaca during Dia De Muertos, when the city of Oaxaca shines during the ancient festival honoring departed family members and friends. This is the yearly celebration dating back to Pre-Columbian times when the spirits of the dead return to visit their loved ones.

Of course, it's a great time to come and book a running tour too, with comfortable temperatures in the 60 - 70 degree Fahrenheit range. The rainy season is mostly over with fair skies the norm. Between evenings filled with the sublime celebrations of the Muertos holiday, you can take a run on the ridges above Oaxaca for a spectacular view of the city and surrounding valleys.

While Dia De Muertos is officially November 2, there are multiple fiestas and celebrations all week leading up to the actual holiday. Many visitors kick off their holiday with a visit to the cemetery in the nearby town of Xoxocotlan on the night of October 31st. The locals decorate their family plots with candles, flowers and elaborate altars featuring the favorite items of their departed family members. The idea is to lure them back with their favorite breads, foods, mezcals or cigars.

Outside the cemetery walls, there is a festive atmosphere with local artisans selling their wares, such as the wooden animal carvers from the nearby village of Arrazola. Numerous puestos (food booths) sell delicious fresh local cuisine served on hot tortillas made from fresh masa on the spot.

Costumes from the Comparsa in Nazareno

November 1st brings ample opportunity to take in the local color. The Panteon Municipal of the city of Oaxaca offers an array of spectacular altars in it's mausoleum building, while outside a carnival rages with rides and games, a very child friendly choice.

The real treat on the night of November 1 is the Comparsas -- neighborhood parades commemorating the Muertos festival. There are often dramatic presentations, as in Colonia Jalatlaco adjacent to the Centro (Oaxaca city center), and amazing displays of singular costumes such as in the village of Nazareno (sort of a well kept secret -- it's spectacular!) There is also a gay friendly comparsa in the Cinco Señores neighborhood that reportedly goes until dawn.

The celebrations mellow a bit on the night of the actual holiday. November 2nd finds families settling in for an all-night, or at least a very late-night vigil at the cemetery where their relatives are. Children scramble around and play games, musicians work their magic, mezcal is enjoyed and warm conversation and remembrances frame the evening. 

Dia De Muertos underscores the Mexican acceptance of mortality with humor and grace, and a profound love of ancestors and understanding of the human experience. It's celebration in Oaxaca is one of the most colorful in all Mexico, and a real eye-opener to visitors from other cultures fortunate enough to experience it.

Steve Lafler
Email me to book a running tour.
Skype 503-213-3671

Order a Oaxaca Running Tours Shirt via Redbubble

The best way to get your Oaxaca Running Tours T-Shirt is, of course, to come to Oaxaca, sign up for a tour and purchase a shirt after the run. Here is the design, my cartoon of a calavera runner in Oaxaca.

For those of you who aren't headed to Oaxaca, you are in luck! You can click through to my shirt site at redbubble and buy your Oaxaca Running Tours shirt here.