Of course, it's a great time to come and book a running tour too, with comfortable temperatures in the 60 - 70 degree Fahrenheit range. The rainy season is mostly over with fair skies the norm. Between evenings filled with the sublime celebrations of the Muertos holiday, you can take a run on the ridges above Oaxaca for a spectacular view of the city and surrounding valleys.
While Dia De Muertos is officially November 2, there are multiple fiestas and celebrations all week leading up to the actual holiday. Many visitors kick off their holiday with a visit to the cemetery in the nearby town of Xoxocotlan on the night of October 31st. The locals decorate their family plots with candles, flowers and elaborate altars featuring the favorite items of their departed family members. The idea is to lure them back with their favorite breads, foods, mezcals or cigars.
Outside the cemetery walls, there is a festive atmosphere with local artisans selling their wares, such as the wooden animal carvers from the nearby village of Arrazola. Numerous puestos (food booths) sell delicious fresh local cuisine served on hot tortillas made from fresh masa on the spot.
Costumes from the Comparsa in Nazareno
November 1st brings ample opportunity to take in the local color. The Panteon Municipal of the city of Oaxaca offers an array of spectacular altars in it's mausoleum building, while outside a carnival rages with rides and games, a very child friendly choice.
The real treat on the night of November 1 is the Comparsas -- neighborhood parades commemorating the Muertos festival. There are often dramatic presentations, as in Colonia Jalatlaco adjacent to the Centro (Oaxaca city center), and amazing displays of singular costumes such as in the village of Nazareno (sort of a well kept secret -- it's spectacular!) There is also a gay friendly comparsa in the Cinco Señores neighborhood that reportedly goes until dawn.
The celebrations mellow a bit on the night of the actual holiday. November 2nd finds families settling in for an all-night, or at least a very late-night vigil at the cemetery where their relatives are. Children scramble around and play games, musicians work their magic, mezcal is enjoyed and warm conversation and remembrances frame the evening.
Dia De Muertos underscores the Mexican acceptance of mortality with humor and grace, and a profound love of ancestors and understanding of the human experience. It's celebration in Oaxaca is one of the most colorful in all Mexico, and a real eye-opener to visitors from other cultures fortunate enough to experience it.
Steve Lafler
Email me to book a running tour.
Skype 503-213-3671
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