Welcome to the Meatgrinder

Two miles into a run at 5000 plus feet, I turn right off the main trail above Oaxaca city and begin another steep climb, bumping uphill about 300 meters. Cresting the rise, I ease downhill a few strides and jump a stream in a rocky crevice.

Choosing the left fork on the other side of the stream, I begin a two-mile-plus climb via switchbacks through a densely wooded mini-valley on the mountain side, broken up by a couple short, level straightaways.

Close to five miles in, it's fair to say I'm warmed up for the return to civilization as I emerge from the woods. I hit a good rhythm on the rolling, winding trot down an abandoned ridge road with spectacular views of the city of Oaxaca and it's three surrounding mountain valleys. I'm feeling good today, so I can squeeze up the pace over the last couple miles through the cobble stone streets of San Felipe del Agua, a neighborhood just north of Oaxaca Centro.

Drawing by Steve Lafler

Favorite running loops might have bucolic or even poetic names. Or they might simply be named for the runner that laid them out.

Derderian's Loop was a favorite romp through the Western Massachusetts woods in my college days, running for UMass and training in the "Pioneer Valley", part of the Connecticut River watershed. The ten-mile-plus loop revealed it's charms with an explosion of fall color in October, a thick blanket of snow in the winter and a second explosion, this one of mud, in March. It was named for one of my predecessors on the UMass distance squad, one Tom Derderian, who went on to record a 2:19 performance in the 1975 running of the Boston Marathon.

More often, running loops are descriptors of the attributes of the course itself. Again at UMass, we had Lower Ridge, Middle Ridge, and Upper Ridge--the egress and exit to all three loops was the same; you could pick an 8, 11 or 13 mile version. I will mention, the 13 mile Upper Ridge course was rarely run the same way twice; it might just as well turn into a 16 mile run, or indeed you might find yourself up on the ridge, 9 miles in, running out of trail. Blair Witch, meet the UMass cross country squad!

This brings us back to the loop I've run twice in the past three days, "The Meatgrinder", a stretch of running/biking/hiking trail on the south slope of the mountain range just north of the Oaxaca city center, above the San Felipe Del Agua neighborhood.

The Meatgrinder isn't a loop in itself, so much as a secondary trail that hooks up with other established running routes, as per the description at the opening of this piece. I was introduced to this loop last June by local ex-pat marathoners Steve and Richard, very fit guys who relish the chance to test their fitness in the rugged hills around Oaxaca. Both of these gentlemen have recorded marathons of under three hours.

Suffice to say, if you can keep a reasonable rhythm running up "The Meatgrinder" which tops out near the 6000 foot mark, you are in pretty darn good shape!

Steve Lafler

Email Steve to book a Oaxaca Running Tour
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Does Mezcal Mix with Running?

I guess it depends on how much you drink!

But there is no doubt, moderate consumption of craft mezcal, the local distilled agave drink, is one of the prime reasons to visit Oaxaca.

I just posted a review of my recent visit to Mezcaleria El Conjuro here. Check it out!

The Grumpy Runner samples a craft mezcal on the El Conjuro mezcaleria terrace. Photo by Carrie McNinch

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The Huatulco Marathon: Better Luck Next Time

Grumpy Runner Complains and Whines

I traveled to the coast of Oaxaca last weekend to the glitzy resort town of Huatulco to run in the first Huatulco Marathon. Actually, I wasn't running the full 26.2 mile race, but the simultaneous 10K that happened that same morning.

I was really pumped for this event. First of all, I'd never been to Huatulco; my visits to the coast of Oaxaca usually take me to the kicked back beach town of San Agustinillo, but forget I mentioned it--I want to keep it's off-the-beaten-track pleasures all to my greedy self! Secondly, I had high hopes, as I'd trained well. I was ready for a good race!

Huatulco is a trip, a strip of high-end resorts along a gorgeous Pacific bay. We stayed at the Barcelo all inclusive resort, a high-rise hotel on the beach with a spectacular pool, several restaurants and of course a swim up bar. My wife managed to score a real deal for us online, maybe 1/3 the posted rate.

The room was posh, the view was great, and the food fresh, well prepared and plentiful. We enjoyed the on-site Sushi restaurant quite a bit. We knocked down our share of watered-down drinks, but not too many as I was there to race!

The race itself started out well enough. While the marathon had several hundred runners, only a bit over a hundred lined up for the simultaneous 5K/10K run. It was a hot morning, but thankfully overcast. My plan was to start slow, build into a good rhythm, and go for broke over the second half of the race.

All went well through the first three kilometers, I felt good and settled into a strong rhythm. I started picking off runners, moved into the top ten and I'm pretty sure I was in first position for my age group (55-59.)

Picking up the pace a bit, I moved through halfway just beginning to feel the stress of the race--but I was ready to dig in and give it what I could. Sadly, it was not to be.

I realized that I was buzzing past really slow runners, like they were barely moving. I wondered if I was off course. I was. Back at the point where the 5K and 10K courses briefly intersected, a poorly trained volunteer had waved me onto the 5K course.

I arrived at the finish after running about 6.5 kilometers, and frankly I was mad as hell. I had a great race going, and a basic incompetence had robbed me of the chance to see it through.

Yes, if you are running for enough years, it's probably happened to you too. You take it in stride, but it still stings pretty good at the moment. To add insult to injury, these knuckleheads listed me in the 5K results. Thanks guys. The way I see it, I won a special event, the 6.5K.

I did literally take one good thing away from the race, and that was the cool T-Shirt they made for it. But they almost messed that up too, as the first one they gave me was a child size. T-Shirt lady ran after me and changed the shirt, so they got something right. Here I am in the cool T, with my best Grumpy Runner face.

I guess I am grumpy 'cause I zipped an email off to the race organizer suggesting they refund my entry fee--after all it was a stiff 350 pesos ($30 US), at least twice the going rate in Oaxaca. Haven't heard back.

A Well-Hydrated Marathon

The marathon itself went off well. A runner friend who finished told me he was pleased that there were aid stations with water throughout, well done! The race was won by Mark Kipkosgei Chepses in 2:38:50. He won by over 5 minutes on a hot day over a hilly course, well done indeed.

Finally, I note that the Huatulco Marathon posted on it's Facebook page on the subject of non-payment of prize money for the race. The language was in a very formal Spanish that I found hard to understand, but it sounds like the organizers were complaining about a lack of assistance from the local authorities in running the race. If I hear more about what happened, I will update this post.
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The Grumpy Runner is a member of Go! Running Tours

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Go Run in Barcelona

I live in Oaxaca, Mexico. It's a singular place, a remote mile-high city, a Mexican Baroque jewel set in it's own remote locale, over rugged mountain ranges from the rest of the country. The culture, cuisine and people are as varied and interesting as the flora and fauna.

I do think, of course, where else would I like to visit? The answer is simple: Barcelona. I've never been there yet I'm drawn to it, not the least because of the wonderful, seemingly alive buildings of Gaudi.

For the runner who visits Barcelona, there is an amazing resource to tap into: Go! Running Tours Barcelona. You can see this wonderful Mediteranean town on the run and choose from an incredible range of tours that run from 6km on up to 25km. Each tour has a different theme, such as the Old Town tour or the Modernism tour.

The Grumpy Runner highly recommends Go! Running Barcelona and indeed I hope to take one of their tours someday (I'll be saving up!)

Steve Lafler
"The Grumpy Runner"
Book a Running Tour of Oaxaca

When Inspiration Knocks, Jump On It

I was out the door this morning for a 7 mile plus (12 K) run on the Libramiento road on the mountainside north of the city of Oaxaca. I'm 11 days away from competing in a 10 kilometer race in Huatulco on the Oaxaca coast, which is being run the same day as the Huatulco Marathon.

Today's plan: Warm up for a couple miles, then run at race tempo as long as I could stand it. Yes, this workout is meant as a dress rehearsal for the race, a real test of fitness. Let's see if I am race ready.

Problem is, I'm flat as a pancake out the door. So I start slow, figuring that after 5 or ten minutes I'll hit my stride and hit the gas. Sorry! Two miles in and I'm still crawling. I settle into a slow pace, accept that this is not the day. Maybe I can do the monster workout later in the week.

Actually, I'm loose by the halfway point, but thoughts of a hard run are gone. I take the turn on the out-and-back course when something funny happens. Out of the corner of my eye, I see a tall slender man sprint up to the ridge road I'm on from a side trail. I recognize him as one of the local contingent of Kenyan runners who live and train in Oaxaca.

I've seen this guy race. He is graceful, the type of runner who makes a fast pace look effortless. He won a local 10K race I ran about a year ago. I'm not sure of his name, indeed I wonder if some of the Kenyans in Oaxaca race under assumed names to avoid paying the notorious double taxes back home, as the winner of the race in question had a Mexican name!

As I run by, I say, "Mucho trabajo!" to him, he replies in English with a smile, "Yes, hard work!" A contingent of Mexican runners are hard on his heels, sharing the workout with him, if not his fluid stride.

Of a moment, I find myself clicking into a strong rhythm as I head back towards town. I wind up and down the hairpin turns of the Libramiento road and enjoy spectacular views of Oaxaca city and the three valleys that converge there, gradually increasing my pace. The final 3 miles of my run give me exactly what I'm looking for, a simulated race level effort, a confirmation of fitness.

Today I seized the moment of inspiration as I saw this talented runner float like a butterfly up a steep hill. I want to offer another bit of inspiration to readers who enjoy international travel, as follows:

I've become a member of Go! Running Tours, the international group of Running Tour providers. Over the next month, I'm going to put links to different members of the group here in my blog. Today I am linking to Go! Running Tours Budapest. Take a look at their site and consider taking a run with them if you're in their neck of the woods! Quite a deal at 25 Euros. As the whole running tour thing takes off, more and more cities are host to Go! Running Tour members.

Steve Lafler
"The Grumpy Runner"
Book a Running Tour in Oaxaca
Skype 503-213-3671 (US based Skype number)

Run in Oaxaca over Dia De Muertos

The Grumpy Runner recommends a visit to Oaxaca during Dia De Muertos, when the city of Oaxaca shines during the ancient festival honoring departed family members and friends. This is the yearly celebration dating back to Pre-Columbian times when the spirits of the dead return to visit their loved ones.

Of course, it's a great time to come and book a running tour too, with comfortable temperatures in the 60 - 70 degree Fahrenheit range. The rainy season is mostly over with fair skies the norm. Between evenings filled with the sublime celebrations of the Muertos holiday, you can take a run on the ridges above Oaxaca for a spectacular view of the city and surrounding valleys.

While Dia De Muertos is officially November 2, there are multiple fiestas and celebrations all week leading up to the actual holiday. Many visitors kick off their holiday with a visit to the cemetery in the nearby town of Xoxocotlan on the night of October 31st. The locals decorate their family plots with candles, flowers and elaborate altars featuring the favorite items of their departed family members. The idea is to lure them back with their favorite breads, foods, mezcals or cigars.

Outside the cemetery walls, there is a festive atmosphere with local artisans selling their wares, such as the wooden animal carvers from the nearby village of Arrazola. Numerous puestos (food booths) sell delicious fresh local cuisine served on hot tortillas made from fresh masa on the spot.

Costumes from the Comparsa in Nazareno

November 1st brings ample opportunity to take in the local color. The Panteon Municipal of the city of Oaxaca offers an array of spectacular altars in it's mausoleum building, while outside a carnival rages with rides and games, a very child friendly choice.

The real treat on the night of November 1 is the Comparsas -- neighborhood parades commemorating the Muertos festival. There are often dramatic presentations, as in Colonia Jalatlaco adjacent to the Centro (Oaxaca city center), and amazing displays of singular costumes such as in the village of Nazareno (sort of a well kept secret -- it's spectacular!) There is also a gay friendly comparsa in the Cinco Señores neighborhood that reportedly goes until dawn.

The celebrations mellow a bit on the night of the actual holiday. November 2nd finds families settling in for an all-night, or at least a very late-night vigil at the cemetery where their relatives are. Children scramble around and play games, musicians work their magic, mezcal is enjoyed and warm conversation and remembrances frame the evening. 

Dia De Muertos underscores the Mexican acceptance of mortality with humor and grace, and a profound love of ancestors and understanding of the human experience. It's celebration in Oaxaca is one of the most colorful in all Mexico, and a real eye-opener to visitors from other cultures fortunate enough to experience it.

Steve Lafler
Email me to book a running tour.
Skype 503-213-3671

Order a Oaxaca Running Tours Shirt via Redbubble

The best way to get your Oaxaca Running Tours T-Shirt is, of course, to come to Oaxaca, sign up for a tour and purchase a shirt after the run. Here is the design, my cartoon of a calavera runner in Oaxaca.

For those of you who aren't headed to Oaxaca, you are in luck! You can click through to my shirt site at redbubble and buy your Oaxaca Running Tours shirt here.

Oaxaca Running Tours T-Shirt

This afternoon I just pulled some prints in the garage and produced the first batch of Oaxaca Running Tours T-Shirts! One of the first questions I got from my clients on the running tour was, "Do you have T-Shirts? We want them!" So, here we are, and they are a relative steal at 150 pesos. This is a rough screen shot photo, but you get the idea. I'll put up a pretty one soon. Steve Lafler Email me 503-213-3671

Grumpy Runner Reviewed on Trip Advisor

Many thanks to Angela G for reviewing my Running Tour service on Tripadvisor! She was in Oaxaca last month with Los Quixotes, a group of medical workers from San Antonio Texas doing pro-bono work in remote areas of Oaxaca. Here's the group at the highest point of our run on the Libramiento above Oaxaca, a no-traffic road that winds through the foothills north of town.
This photo of The Grumpy Runner is courtesy of TripAdvisor

Time to Standardize PED Testing for Runners

According to this piece at Runners World, Dathan Ritzenhein was the most tested runner in the United States in 2012, with 17 tests. Mo Farah, the double world and Olympic champion over 5,000 and 10,000 meters, speaks of being tested constantly in a recent interview with the Telegraph.

Of course it is necessary to test elite runners in the struggle to keep the sport clean, but it's not fair to test some athletes constantly while others are barely tested. It makes sense to require elite athletes to regularly take the same type and number of tests.

This begs the question, who administers and pays for it all. How about the shoe companies and other corporations that sponsor athletes and competitions?

I'm the first to admit I'm pretty naive about the PED situation. At the gut level, and as a fan of the sport, I think it's time to standardize testing.

Bumping Up A Level

This year I've been bumping along building my base fitness at a very modest level, hitting an average of maybe 18 miles per week. Nonetheless, I've been feeling fit as my weeks are comprised of four days of running as follows: Three five mile runs and a three mile run. Typically, all these runs feature a variation of a course that starts at about 5200 feet in altitude, features a 400 meter hill climb and a general roller coaster ride. As fitness grows, my pace gradually increases.

Still, I've nurtured a desire to take my game up a notch as I consider a return to racing. Truth is, I've raced for decades as a low mileage runner, covering more like 25 miles per week when I'm really going after it. Certainly I've included some ball-busting tempo runs and intervals, but the last time I consistently ran 50-60 mile weeks was as an undergraduate miler for UMass Amherst in the late 1970s, hitting a best of 4:01 over 1500 meters and 1:57 for the 800.

In my immediate post college years, I achieved modest yet satisfying off my limited miles, for example a 26:31 clocking over 5 miles. I did always wonder, what would happen if I really trained?

While I've ruminated over how to take it up a notch, fate stepped in and decided I'd be doing some longer runs. Via mutual ex-pat friends here in Oaxaca, I've fallen in with Steve and Richard, two guys more than a decade younger than I who are really fit, aiming for a marathon and a 50 mile ultra distance race respectively.

The last few weeks have seem my weekly miles go up to the mid 20s so far, but more importantly, I've been dragged further up the hills, cresting 6000 foot ridges and covering 7 - 10 miles at a time. Ouch! It's fun and challenging. I'm proceeding carefully, taking care to rest enough for these longer runs.

Best of all, I have a 5K trail run and a 10K flat race coming up in Oaxaca over the next ten days. It's going to be fun and interesting to check my fitness in a race setting. While I don't expect miracles, I'm confident I can run a decent rhythm and push myself to a good effort.

A postscript -- I ran the so-called 5K trail run. What a monster! We started out through the woods over rolling terrain for about a mile, then plunged straight down a hill the locals call "Carnivore" for another mile. With each stide down, I kept thinking, "you gotta climb back up every inch of this beast". And I was correct, up we went on a pitched incline that I can only call a mountain climb.

At the top, the return trail was a winding roller coaster for a good 2 kilos. I'd estimate the length of the race at about 4.24 - 4.5 miles. My pal Steve Bruner won in 32:10, and I was 6th in 39:12. There were a total of 29 runners in the "5K", as there was a simultaneous 16K run. Three days later I have not fully recovered, mostly because of my efforts on that hill.

Back in the Saddle Again

Like Aerosmith's Steven Tyler, I'm back in the saddle again. Here's how I tackled a problem that almost ended my running "career".

This morning at 8:00 a.m., I eased into my five mile loop from my son's school in San Felipe del Agua, Oaxaca. From there, I wind past the Panteon (cemetary) and head up the incline towards the mountain range that borders the city of Oaxaca to the north.

One mile in, a steep incline spits me out of town and into the campo (countryside). I've hit my rhythm and prepare for the big 400 meter hill that lay in wait around the next bend. I'm feeling good, as recent runs have brought me near racing fitness.

Half a year ago, I didn't know if I'd ever have this exhilarating experience again. Most days, if I tried to run hard, I'd experience an irregular heart beat and I'd have to slow down. I'd recently been diagnosed with an electrical heart block, which means the electric signals that tell my heart when to beat were blocked on one side. My cardiologist assured me I could still run. However, I noted that if I experienced the irregular beat while running, I had to slow my pace.

I'm 56 years old, and I started formally running at age 15 in 1972. It's a huge part of me and I could barely believe I had this problem. I first felt the irregular beat at age 17 after running a P.R. in the indoor mile, but it never actually impacted my ability to run, and run hard.

I did the research and tried to mitigate the problem by cutting back on caffeine, sweets, alcohol and even marijuana! It all helped but did not solve the problem. It had just become more pronounced as I age.

This is where my sister, the well known nutritionist Judy Converse enters the picture. I mentioned my problem to Judy, and without missing a beat she recommends I try an amino acid supplement, Taurine, along with a magnesium supplement. It turns out Taurine has been used as an effective treatment for cardiac arrhythmia.

So here's a hats off to a nutritional solution to my problem! Researching it on the medical front, I found recommendations for a pacemaker, or an invasive procedure where your heart tissue is scarred in order to shock it into beating properly. I was not keen on either of these ideas! The medical industry offered zero information on a nutritional solution to my problem.

So I tried Taurine. The day after my first dose, I ran seven miles without incident.

The upshot of the whole thing, I can once again run a hard rhythm over my five mile, hilly course at 5600 feet in the altitude of Oaxaca, and I am a very happy camper!

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Oaxaca Altitude Run with Suicide Hill

My favorite run in Oaxaca, Mexico starts at just over 5000 feet in altitude from my house in Colonia Antiguo Aeropuerto. The loop is a tad under 7 miles. I wind my way north through the neighborhoods of Volcanes and San Felipe Del Agua, where I climb a steep 100 meter hill that places me at the edge of town at Parque Colosio. Thus far, I've chugged a couple miles climbing to about 5 - 5300 feet.

I've posted a video about the route here.

From there, I'm on dirt roads heading out of town towards the 9000 foot ridge just north of the city of Oaxaca. I'm just hitting my rhythm as I hit a killer hill, about 600 meters of a very steep pitch.

If my rhythm and fitness are good, I chug right up this monster. I'll admit, some days I can barely get one foot in front of the other. In any case, at the top, I'm rewarded with a panoramic view of the city of Oaxaca and the three mountain valleys that converge at the city. The hill plants you at about 56 - 5700 feet above sea level.

The run back to town continues along the Libramiento, a closed off ridge road skirting the side of the mountain. It ribbons along the slope, undulating rolling switchbacks that further challenge your stride. On a good day, I can maintain a consistent rhythm and pace through this part. The inclines aren't as severe as the earlier hill. Few cars make it up there, but there are cows, goats, other runners and bikers.

Train at Altitude: Running Tours of Oaxaca, Mexico

Oaxaca, Mexico is a southern Mexico city that is the seat of an intact indigenous culture. Renowned for it's cuisine, arts, ruins, markets and natural beauty, it's also the home of Mezcal, the mysterious smokey/smooth distilled agave beverage that is the soul of Oaxaca. At just over 5000 feet in altitude, it's the perfect place for the serious runner, offering ample opportunities to run, train and race in a cultural mecca. As a Oaxaca resident since 2007, I'm your insider guide to running adventure here.

Oaxaca is noted for it's Day of the Dead celebrations in early November

Easily reached via a direct flight on United from Houston, Oaxaca offers a wide range of elegant, reasonably priced hotels. Aero Mexico also flies to Oaxaca via Mexico City.

The city of Oaxaca sits at the confluence of three mountain valleys and boasts a near ideal climate. The city center features a charming array of sixteenth century baroque architecture, dotted with convivial cafes and restaurants featuring the world renowned Oaxacan cuisine.

Oaxaca sports an active running community, the locals logging their training miles on pavement, in parks and in the campo (countryside). The frequent road races are well attended, convivial events. Be warned, there is fierce competition--perhaps because most races offer prize money in all age categories, in cash! I will admit to some skepticism about age claims amongst some of the masters runners around here, given the performances they log.

There is even a contingent of local Kenyan athletes, perhaps a dozen men and women, who use Oaxaca as a training base, occasionally testing their fitness in local runs.

 Libramiento Road, North of Oaxaca City

You are invited to join me as your host for running in Oaxaca. We will run the Libramiento, the pedestrian road that skirts the mountain range north of Oaxaca. It's a perfect locale for a challenging long run at 5,600 feet that includes a spectacular view of the city. 

 Llano Grande, Oaxaca

Truly hardy souls can opt for a visit to the nearby mountain village of Llano Grande for a run at over 6,000 feet in a pristine setting, with the promise of a fresh trout meal on the way back to town.

Subject to availability, there is always the possibility of catching a road race while visiting. Failing that, you can test your fitness on the on the flat 5 kilometer course in Techio park south of town. All in all, Oaxaca offers a superb opportunity for runners to get a leg up on the competition with some altitude training, and to enjoy life!

Can you pick Steve out from the locals on the starting line? Photo by Jeff Charles.

Running in Oaxaca is a far cry from the rugged ultra-runner experience among Mexico's Tarahumara tribe described by writer Christopher McDougal in his seminal book Born to Run. While there is plenty of hilly, challenging countryside to run, there is a surfeit of urban amenities waiting for you at the end of the trail.

In addition to these running tours, I host visits to ruins, arts and craft villages, museums, mezcal stills, markets and other Oaxaca attractions. I also recommend local guides and tours in addition to leading them myself.

My fee for running/tour services is 250 pesos/20 dollars per hour plus gas. The day rate is 1200 pesos/100 dollars.

I'm a lifelong runner myself, starting in 1972 at age 15. I raced my way through high school and college, running both 1:57 for 800 meters and 4:01 over 1500 meters at UMass Amherst. Today, as age 56, I keep fit running the Oaxacan hills and enjoying the local cuisine.

Steve Lafler racing over 5K in 2007 in Portland, Oregon.

Steve Lafler, Oaxaca, Mexico

Email me

503-213-3671 (US based Skype number)

 

55 & Counting (Laps)

A miler as a youth, I'm a 5K guy now by dint of availability of races.

As I near 56 in a month, I see that I hit a time of 21:42 as a 55 year old, a time trial on a track at the 5000 ft. altitude of Oaxaca. Received knowledge among statisticians gives me a 25 second allowance for the altitude, I'll take it.

Today at sea level, I ground out a 22:28.3, again on the track.

I didn't hit the roads too much this year, my best being a 23:05 at altitude. I was not in shape and it was a hot day.

Onward, through the years, I always think I can run faster, and I pretty much always get slower, but I love the game and continue.

As a youth on the UMass track team, I ran 10 miles in the woods on an easy day in 70 minutes, about my race pace now!

My best ever over 5K, 16:10, came in a low key race where I loafed then had way too much kick over the last 400. I think my best effort over the distance came in a high school XC race in Boston, where I hit 16:22, exhausting myself.